When selecting a princess cut diamond, you might want to avoid stones that have a table % that is larger than the depth % for optimum brilliance. The majority of nice performing stones tend to have smaller tables in the 64-69% range. Also, my personal preference and advice is to stick with a minimum of G color and SI1 clarity.

Excellent Very Good Good Fair/Poor
Table % 63% – 69% 57% – 75% 53% – 82% Outside Ranges
Depth % 69% – 76% 60% – 78% 58% – 80% Outside Ranges
Polish/Symmetry Excellent – Very Good Good Outside Ranges
Length to Width (Square) 1.00 – 1.02 1.00 – 1.04 1.00 – 1.05 Outside Ranges
Length to Width (Rectangle) 1.5 – 1.75 1.76 – 1.85 1.86 – 1.99 Outside Ranges
Girdle Thickness Thin – Slightly Thick V. Thin – Thick Outside Ranges
Culet Size None Very Small Small Outside Ranges

* Note: The table should be used as a reference only. You should also incorporate light performance data like the ASET to help you make a final decision on your choice. Never go below very thin for girdle thickness or you run the risk of chipping the diamond.

Example of a Super Ideal Princess Cut Diamonds – Brian Gavin

super ideal princess cut
light performance of ags 0 princess cut

This Brian Gavin signature princess is a fine example of a super bright and sparkly diamond for your benchmark. The ASET image showing tons of red indicating light return is at the top 0.1% of all the polished princess cuts in the market.

Different Outlines And Length to Width Ratios

Did you know that princesses can come in all sorts of shapes and outlines? Sadly, a lot of badly cut diamonds flood the market today and the majority of the stones have poor light performance. Check out the different kinds of shapes and outlines that they can come in.

shape issues and l/w ratios

One of the most common mistakes people make when buying fancy cuts is to buy sight unseen or based solely on a grading report. To avoid such problems, I highly recommend that you work with vendors that offer visualization technologies like photos or videos so that you know what you are getting. Always check out the diamond with a magnification before you lay down any money.

Here’s another hidden aspect of cut that most jewelers never tell you about. Did you also know that chevrons in a princess can change the outlook of the stone? Continue reading to find out more…

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